NordenBladet – Israel is the intersection of many cultures, religions and people. Israel is a holy land where every stone has its own story … In my travel blog today, I invite you to the roots of cultural history. I write about the Kumran (Qumran) caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found – being the oldest known Bible texts and also I write about the famous Dead Sea.
Qumran is situated half a mile from the northwestern end of the Dead Sea, and this settlement was created between 134 and 104 b.c.e. during the reign of John Hyrcanus. It is believed that caves were used to hide in the event of danger. During the 1947-1950 archeological excavations, there were discovered 900 Dead Sea Scrolls that reflect the secrets of life and beliefs of religious sect as well as an overview of the Jewish society in Israel during the Second Temple period. Dead Sea Scrolls are the oldest known Bible texts.
It was interesting to see that already two thousand years ago, the caves were dug into the rocks, there was a dwelling, a common dining room and washrooms with a bathtub cascade – the possibility of the mikvah (i.e., women’s ritual cleansing bath). Historians think this place was home to Jewish religious sect – the essenides. In the east of the settlement, a cemetery was discovered, where the remains of the males were mainly found. The Dead Sea Scrolls were found in eleven caves believed to have been in libraries, since traces of shelving systems were found there. The Scrolls were most likely to be hidden in the caves during the first Jewish-Roman war (66-73 BC). Shrouds and historic coins have also been found in settlements. When possible, I would definitely recommend visiting Qumran during your stay in Israel to get an idea of how people lived in the mountains 2000 years ago – the excitement is guaranteed!
The ride from Jerusalem to Qumran runs along the Dead Sea pier – on the left is a salty lake 50 kilometers long. On the right is the hills and oaks of Judea. The Dead Sea is about 408 m below sea level. The lake’s salt content is 25% (the world’s highest salt content water body). Ancient people called it the Sea of Salt. Local people call it that up to this day.
There is practically no rainfall there: the rainfall is 50 mm per year, and there is really hot- the temperature is 32 °and 39° C throughout the year. We walked along the Dead Sea shore and touched the water. Water leaves an oily touch, because it is so salty (34g of salt per liter of water). Therefore, it is not possible to swim in the Dead Sea; one can only hover in the water.
The Dead Sea is one of the most widely advertised health settlements in the world, with its medicinal properties known already for two thousand years. This is one of the first health resorts in the world, a place mentioned even in the Holy Scriptures. The saltiness of ordinary seawater is about 3%, while in the Dead Sea it is about 27%. Magnesium, potassium, calcium chloride and various bromides rejuvenate the skin, improve the functioning of the nervous system, accelerate blood circulation, strengthen bones and nails, and relax the muscles, while giving strength to the body and improving the immune system.
A number of kibbutzim are located in some oases of the Dead Sea. These are cooperatives in which people engage in agricultural production and live on the sale of these products. According to data from 2010, 270 kibbutzim made up 40% of Israeli agricultural output. Historically, kibbutzim have also been involved in national defense tasks.
NordenBladet – The Northeners love to select as their travel destination the places where you can find palm trees, swimming pools, market places crammed with goods, restaurants catering delicious local dishes, and warm weather.
Therefore Morocco is exactly the place where people wish to go on holiday and on mission. The sun is guaranteed and the temperatures are delightful. It is wortwhile visiting Marrakech Morocco around the year, although spring and autumn are the town’s best seasons. Midsummer might turn out a little too hot (around 38 degrees Celsius), and often during Ramadan in August the stores and restaurants will be closed.
Marrakech charms with its exotic and versatile atmosphere, defined by the peaceful coexistence of various cultures and eras. In Marrakech the cultures of the Orient and the Occident, the Middle Ages and the Digital Era meet. NordenBladet points out 5 sightseeings that are worth visiting while in Marrakech.
1. Jemaa El Fna (Jemaa el-Fnaa, Djema el-Fna, Djemaa el-Fnaa), also known as Storytellers Square
This is probably the best known locations in Marrakech old town (medina). It is an extensive market ground and the center of the town’s various enterprises. On the crowded square of Jemaa El Fna one can meet both professional and amateur musicians, acrobats, blackmagicians, storytellers, fortune-tellers, animal tamers and others kinds of entertainers. The place is also known as the Square of the Dead or the Square of the Hanged, since as late as 1912 the criminals were still publicly punished there. Marrakech old town is listed as UNESCO world heritage. Due to the town’s historic significance it is possible to observe plenty of fascinating historic architecture there. The town wall that was mainly built in the 12th century, is 19 km long. The wall is up to 5.8 m high and incorporates 20 gates and around 200 spires.
2. Marrakech Berber market (souk)
A separate sightseeing and why not also a place for beneficial purchase is Marrakech Berber market (souk) – the largest amongst its kind in Morocco. From this large market consisting of various smaller markets one can find vary varies products from Berber handicraft to modern electronics.
3. Bahia palace ( address: Medina Avenue Imam el Ghazali, Marrakech 40000, Morocco)
Bahia grand palace was built as home to the vizier Ba Ahmed Ben Moussa and his four wives in the beginning of the 20th century. It is a signpost to the greatness and wealth of Marrakech rulers. A visit to Bahia palace takes the guest back to the times of the vizier and his harem. The abundance of inner courtyards, gardens, the spaciousness and the numerous fountains make it possible for a large number of guest to visit the place simultaneously and the entire atmosphere is really worthwhile paying a visit.
4. Jardin Majorelle (address: Rue Yves Saint Laurent، Marrakesh 40090, Morocco)
The Botanical Gardens of Majorelle have a versatile collection of plants from five different continents and ot is open for tourists from 1947. The gardens are famous for the cacti collection, fountains and the more than ten endemic species of birds. The Majorelle Gardens, designed by the French artist Jacques Majorelle, are open to all interested visitors – the beautiful private property was the fruit of 40 years of the frenchman’s work. 18 years after his death the possessions were bought by Yves Saint Laurent ja Pierre Berge who restored the place. The ashes of the artist who passed away on 1 June 2008 have been cast there.
5. Koutoubia mosque (address: Medina Jamaa El Fenna, Marrakech 40000, Morocco)
Situated 200 meters from Jemaa El Fnaa, the Koutobia mosque is among the town’s most historic buildings (built back in the second half of the 12th century) and the 77m high minaret next to it is towering the town. The mosque is also known by the names Kutubiyya Mosque, Jami’ al-Kutubiyah, Kotoubia Mosque, Kutubiya Mosque and Kutubiyyin Mosque.
NordenBladet – The Moroccans are particularly proud for their Argan oil that is produced from the seeds of a naturally growing tree Argania spinosa in Northern Africa in the South Eastern part of Morocco. This expensive oil is often called the liquid gold of Morocco. When going to Morocco as a tourist, the argan oil is the first on the list of goods to be brought back home from Morocco. Yet one cannot get the 100% pure and good quality argan oil from everywhere.
I visited the Khmissa Argan represetational store in Essaouira (Centre Mejji, Taftachte) with a couple of OHMYGOSSIP and NordenBladet colleagues and we were introduced to the preparation process of argan oil. There are argan oil products from nice brand names (i.e. Rosa Huile and Aitma Sens) for sale – soap, oils, lotions, etc – at the local shops.
What does the argan tree fruit look like?
The argan fruit resembles an olive but it is somewhat larger and more round. Inside the fleshy fruit there is a very tough shelled nut with 2-3 almond-like kernels.
Where does the argan tree grow?
The argan tree grows on a narrow area and the crop is rather limited (from a 60-year-old tree of the maximum fruitfulness you get 8 kg seeds in a year).
How is it harvested and produced?
Perhaps many of you have seen an exotic view – goats eating on top of trees as birds. The animals that have climbed up are gulping the fleshy fruit of argan, yet their organisms do not digest the seeds inside the shell. Thus women are gathering the nuts from their stool, which is then followed by careful treatment. Traditionally the oil is pressed manually (ca 36 kg will result in 1 litre pure oil), maiing it very unique.
What does it contain?
Argan oil contains plenty of bioflavonoids, omega 6 fatty acids, other beneficial ingredients, also vitamin E twice as much as does olive oil.
What is argan oil used for?
Argan oil is very much valued in the preparation of cosmetics products and also in medicine. It is a universal „magic item”, well suited for practically everything. Historically it has firts and foremost belonged to the local kitchen.
Argan oil is good for nourishing dry hair and making them shine. Just a few drops of oil added to the shampoo or regularly applied to hair roots will decrease splitting of hair ends and loss of hair. Also, it balances skin metabolism and fosters rejuvenation of skin cells. It is suitable for sensitive skin and occurrance of acne.
When there is a tendency of splitting in nails and the cuticles are dry, it is possible to cure the situation, holding fingertips in a mixture of oil and lemon juice (1:1) once a week for 15 minutes at a time.
Photos and videos from Morocco and the visit to Khmissa Argan can be found from Instagram accounts of Helena-Reet Ennet (@helenareetennet) and Estella Elisheva (@estellaelisheva)
NordenBladet – the Majorelle Botanical Gardens, accommodating a versatile plant collection from five continents, are open to visitors since 1947. the gardens are famous for tye collection of cacti, the fountains as well as the birds from ten endemic species.
The gardens that are now open to all interested visitors have been founded by the French artist Jacques Majorelle – this picturesque private property was the fruit of 40 years of his commitment. 18 years after the artist passed away the property was purchased by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge. They restored the estate as a private property.
The French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent (1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008) truely loved Morocco and Marrakech. He was actually so fond of Marrakech that he wished the Jardin Majorelle, where he lived and worked together with his spouse Pierre Berge, to be his last resting place.
In October 2017 the Yves Saint Laurent Museum was open on Yves Saint Laurent Street in Marrakech.
NordenBladet – How frequently do the Scandinavians actually travel? United Kingdom’s travel site MoveHub.com compiled a list of nations that travel the most, based on World Tourism Organization and World Bank data – top 5 of this list included as many as two Northern countries, Sweden and Finland.
People from Hongkong travel the most, according to surveys its inhabitants undertook 11.4 journeys per year. This extraordinarily high number was due to the matter that the travels of the neighbouring country China were also included in the statistics.
The second place went to Hungary where the inhabitants travelled 1.62 times per year.
In the top 5 there were also the Swedes, the Finns and the Luxembourgians. It was surprising to discover that the Norwegians travel significantly less that the rest of the Northern population, in that respect being beaten even by Estonians. According to the statistics, Estonians undertake 0.93 travel per person per year.
NordenBladet – The Moroccan manually woven carpet is a natural luxurious original piece of work that will add to the character and gloss of each and every home. While manually woven, the carpet is not threatened by water, it is 100% natural and will wear only after decades. Actually this type of carpet necessitates replacement during one’s lifetime only in case of home interior design renewal.
Handmade carpets with traditional patterns are inherited within the family from one generation to the next. Traces of wearing out of a carpet many decades old just increases its value. In the Northern countries for example one might compare this phenomenon to that of preserving the folk costume skirts and aprons down each generation, every piece of handicraft accumulating more value with the years.
Producing a handmade carpet is a long time enterprise and therefore also precious labor. A fine carpet also has a fitting cost (prices of the smallest carpets start from 600 euros).
While in Morocco as a tourist we might ponder the question whether the carpets are actually original work (handmade and not prepared through automated process) and also how we are supposed to transport the carpets when we travel back home.
Answering the first question appears tricky – definitely there are both original works and fake products for sale, so to prevent being deceived it is best to ask from the hotel or from yout travel guide where you can purchase the original products.
One place where you can definitely obtain a quality hand made carpet is the „Chateau Des Souks” carpet and antiquity store on Marrakech market (44, Souk Semmarine Marrakech). „Chateau Des Souks” will give the client a proper carpet performance – will cater peppermint tea and will spread one great carpet after another beyond your feet. The purchase will be redirected straight to your home so you wouldn’t need to worry about that further. Comfortable and trustworthy place!
From the same store you may also acquire beautiful antique articles. A genuine pearl in the midst of the big Marrakech market (soak).
NordenBladet – Kruununhaka (Swedish: Kronohagen) is a neighbourhood of Helsinki, the capital of Finland. Kruununhaka became the area next to the harbour and the center, when Helsinki was moved from the earlier location in the mid-1660s. From the very beginning, the residents included city and state officials. Many buildings of the University of Helsinki are also situated in Kruununhaka. The area has become known for its vintage shops.
The district of Kruununhaka, commonly referred to as “Krunikka” or “Kruna” among locals, is bordered by Unioninkatu to the west and Pohjoisesplanadi and the Market Square to the south. It was here to the deeper waters of the Vironniemi peninsula that Helsinki was moved from the mouth of the Vantaanjoki river in 1640 upon the orders of Queen Christina of Sweden (1626–1689). Kruununhaka gets its name from the grazing grounds of the crown’s horses, which were located in the area of present-day Rauhankatu. In the early 1700s this area was still slightly outside the town centre, but today Kruununhaka is considered to include almost the entire area of the original settlement.
At the heart of Kruununhaka is Senate Square and the main buildings of the historic city centre. The North Harbour (Pohjoissatama) along the eastern edge of the district is used by sailing ships and small boats, which can be admired from the recently renovated Halkolaituri quay. Kruununhaka is home to around 6800 residents.
Katajanokka and Kruununhaka are usually thought of as built up residential districts with monumental stone buildings, but between and around all the buildings are many pleasant green areas that mean a lot to the local residents. Most visitors would scarcely even recognise some of them as parks. You can begin this walking tour either from Katajanokka or Kruununhaka. Along the way there are many nice lunch places and summer terraces. The buildings and parks exude the aura of over a hundred years of history combined with the fresh smell of the sea. Along with everything that is old in these neighbourhoods, there are also some interesting new features
Pohjoisranta waterfront in Kruununhaka, as seen from nearby Katajanokka. Photo: OHMYGOSSIP/ Helena-Reet Ennet
OHMYGOSSIP is glad to present you more pictures of Kruununhaka:
NordenBladet – The need to become one of the major economic powers in the world has forced two countries with a population of over a billion to invest in industrial development, however it comes with an environmental effect.
More than 5,5 million people die per year due to pollution, most of them in India and China. Although China has step by step taken action due to the major environmental hazard, it does not mean that the statistic decrease of pollution has solved the situation. It keeps happening more often that schools need to focus their study process due to smog.
Polluted air causes 1,6 million people in China and 1,4 million in India to die per year. Only high blood pressure, unhealthy alimentary habits and cigarettes kill more people than pollution.
Numerous researches have compared the connection between air pollution and people’s health in 188 countries from 1990-2013. It turns out that 85% of the world’s population lives in areas which are polluted according to WHO, thus on one way or another, most of us suffer due to polluted air.
However, the situation is getting better in comparison with the statistics of 2012, where according to WHO 7 million people diet due to pollution as now the statistics show “just” 5,5 million deaths related to the air quality.
China’s air is mostly destroyed by heating buildings and industries by coal, which solely causes 360000 deaths. In India it’s common to burn in the ingle besides wood also grain waste and dung, which causes more pollution related deaths inside than outside.
According to the World’s Health Organization, air pollution should not exceed 25 microgram particles per cubic meter. In Beijing and New Delhi it is more than 300 micrograms, meaning it exceeds the norm by 1200%.
NordenBladet – Have you got the feeling for a long time that you’d like to move somewhere else? Then why not to choose a place where you get a salary just by living there?
1. Utrecht, the Netherlands
Due to a social experiment, there is a project in Utrecht where each citizen is paid 1000 euros, no strings attached. Just live and enjoy!
Utrecht is the capital and most populous city in the Dutch province of Utrecht. It is located in the eastern corner of the Randstad conurbation and is the fourth largest city in the Netherlands with a population of 330,772 in 2017. Utrecht’s ancient city center features many buildings and structures several dating as far back as the High Middle Ages. It has been the religious center of the Netherlands since the 8th century. It lost the status of prince-bishopric but remains the main religious center in the country. Utrecht was the most important city in the Netherlands until the Dutch Golden Age, when it was surpassed by Amsterdam as the country’s cultural center and most populous city. Utrecht is host to Utrecht University, the largest university in the Netherlands, as well as several other institutions of higher education. Due to its central position within the country, it is an important transport hub for both rail and road transport. It has the second highest number of cultural events in the Netherlands, after Amsterdam. In 2012, Lonely Planet included Utrecht in the top 10 of the world’s unsung places.
2. Ponga, Spain
Married couples who create a home in the town with beautiful nature which is located in North of Spain, get supported by 6000 euros. The city council of the scenic town is worried for the decreasing population. And if you have a child, the financial aid is increased by another 3000 euros. You´ll find more info about it HERE.
Ponga is a town and municipality in the province and autonomous community of Asturias, northwestern Spain. Its capital is San Juan de Beleño.
3. Detroit, USA
Detroit has had tons of problems which have left the entire districts empty. To make the situation more attractive for entrepreneurs, 2500 dollars will be granted to each entrepreneur or professional who moves in town. And not only — while you’re searching for a job, the city offers housing and councelling.
Detroit is the most populous city in the U.S. state of Michigan, the fourth-largest city in the Midwest and the largest city on the United States–Canada border. It is the seat of Wayne County, the most populous county in the state. The municipality of Detroit had a 2015 estimated population of 677,116, making it the 21st-most populous city in the United States. The metropolitan area, known as Metro Detroit, is home to 4.3 million people, making it the second-largest in the Midwest, and lies at the heart of the Great Lakes Megalopolis area, with around 60 million people. Roughly one-half of Michigan’s population lives in Metro Detroit alone. The Detroit–Windsor area, a commercial link straddling the Canada–U.S. border, has a total population of about 5.7 million.
Detroit is a major port on the Detroit River, a strait that connects the Great Lakes system to the Saint Lawrence Seaway. The Detroit Metropolitan Airport is among the most important hubs in the United States. The City of Detroit anchors the second-largest economic region in the Midwest, behind Chicago, and the thirteenth-largest in the United States. Detroit and its neighboring Canadian city Windsor are connected through a tunnel and various bridges, with the Ambassador Bridge being the busiest international crossing in North America.
Detroit was founded on July 24, 1701 by the French explorer and adventurer Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac and a party of settlers. During the 19th century, it became an important industrial hub at the center of the Great Lakes region. With expansion of the American automobile industry in the early 20th century, the Detroit area emerged as a significant metropolitan region within the United States. The city became the fourth-largest in the country for a period. In the 1950s and 1960s, suburban expansion continued with construction of a regional freeway system. A great portion of Detroit’s public transportation was abandoned in favor of becoming an automotive city in the post-war period, which has gradually reversed since the 1970s.
Due to industrial restructuring and loss of jobs in the auto industry, Detroit lost considerable population from the late 20th century to the present. Between 2000 and 2010 the city’s population fell by 25 percent, changing its ranking from the nation’s 10th-largest city to 18th. In 2010, the city had a population of 713,777, more than a 60 percent drop from a peak population of over 1.8 million at the 1950 census. This resulted from suburbanization, corruption, industrial restructuring and the decline of Detroit’s auto industry. In 2013, the state of Michigan declared a financial emergency for the city, which was successfully exited with all finances handed back to Detroit in December 2014. Detroit has experienced urban decay as its population and jobs have shifted to its suburbs or elsewhere.
The erstwhile rapid growth of Detroit left a globally unique stock of architectural monuments and historic places of the first half of the 20th century, with many of them falling into disrepair or torn down since the 1960s. Conservation efforts managed to save many architectural pieces since the 2000s and allowed several large-scale revitalisations. Downtown Detroit has held an increased role as a cultural destination in the 21st century, with the restoration of several historic theatres and entertainment venues, highrise renovations, new sports stadiums, and a riverfront revitalization project. More recently, the population of Downtown Detroit, Midtown Detroit, and various other neighborhoods has increased. Some other neighborhoods remain distressed with abandonment of properties, partly revitalised by initiatives like Blight Busters, or renovated by new inhabitants for affordable housing and homesharing, such as students and young entrepreneurs.
4. Niagara Falls, USA
To attract younger citizens to the city, the city pays back 7000 dollars from new citizens school loans. The condition is that you need to live and work for a loval company, not through internet for another Estonian company, at least for two years.
Niagara Falls is a city in Niagara County, New York, United States. As of the 2010 census, the city had a total population of 50,193, down from the 55,593 recorded in the 2000 census. It is adjacent to the Niagara River, across from the city of Niagara Falls, Ontario, and named after the famed Niagara Falls which they share. The city is within the Buffalo–Niagara Falls Metropolitan Statistical Area as well as the Western New York region.
While the city was formerly occupied by Native Americans, Europeans who migrated to the Niagara Falls in the mid-17th century began to open businesses and develop infrastructure. Later in the 18th and 19th centuries, scientists and businessmen began harnessing the power of the Niagara River for electricity and the city began to attract manufacturers and other businesses that were drawn by the promise of inexpensive hydroelectric power. After the 1960s, however, the city and region witnessed an economic decline consistent with the rest of the Rust Belt as industries left the city and affluent families relocated to nearby suburbs. Globalization has played a large role in the decline of manufacturing in the city.
Despite the decline in heavy industry, Niagara Falls State Park and the downtown area closest to the falls continue to thrive as a result of tourism. The population, however, has continued to decline from a peak of 102,394 in the 1960s due to the loss of manufacturing jobs in the area.
Phooto: Niagara Falls, USA (OHMYGOSSIP)
5. Cape Breton, Canada
Go to be a baker in a local bakery and get two acres of land completely for free. The little village with 800 people living there, located in the idyllic countryside, is lacking the workforce. In addition, the local bakery goods are so delicious that without the extra labor force they are not able to fulfil the orders.
Cape Breton Island is an island on the Atlantic coast of North America and part of the province of Nova Scotia, Canada. Its name may derive from Capbreton near Bayonne, or more probably from the word Breton, the French adjective form of the proper noun Bretagne, the French historical region.
The 10,311 km2 (3,981 sq mi) island accounts for 18.7% of the Nova Scotia’s total area. Although physically separated from the Nova Scotia peninsula by the Strait of Canso, the 1,385 m (4,544 ft) long rock-fill Canso Causeway connects it to mainland Nova Scotia. The island is east-northeast of the mainland with its northern and western coasts fronting on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence; its western coast also forms the eastern limits of the Northumberland Strait. The eastern and southern coasts front the Atlantic Ocean; its eastern coast also forms the western limits of the Cabot Strait. Its landmass slopes upward from south to north, culminating in the highlands of its northern cape. One of the world’s larger salt water lakes, Bras d’Or (“Arm of Gold” in French), dominates the island’s centre.
The island is divided into four of Nova Scotia’s eighteen counties: Cape Breton, Inverness, Richmond, and Victoria. Their total population at the 2016 census numbered 132,010 “Cape Bretoners”; this is approximately 15% of the provincial population. Cape Breton Island has experienced a decline in population of approximately 2.9% since the 2011 census. Approximately 75% of the island’s population is in the Cape Breton Regional Municipality (CBRM) which includes all of Cape Breton County and is often referred to as Industrial Cape Breton, given the history of coal mining and steel manufacturing in this area, which was Nova Scotia’s industrial heartland throughout the 20th century.
The island has five reserves of the Mi’kmaq Nation: Eskasoni, Membertou, Wagmatcook, Waycobah, and Potlotek/Chapel Island. Eskasoni is the largest in both population and land area.
Featured image:Utrecht, Netherlands (OHMYGOSSIP/Helena-Reet Ennet)
NordenBladet – Modern traveling opportunities are fast and powerful, letting us visit most of the places in the world during one day. But there still exist a few places which are very hard to get to. There are even a few places where a human has never stepped his foot. If you are looking for a traveling challenge, then Lonelyplanet has chosen three places for you.
Pitcairni island
Located in the Pacific Ocean and belonging to the Great Britain, only 49 people live there. The closes airport is 531 miles away on Mangareva island. But even from there heads just one flight per week to Tahhiti. All the necessary stuff is brought from Mangareva to Pitcairni once each 3 month by boat, the journey takes 32 hours. The return ticket for this boat trip costs 5000 USD dollars. If you feel like you should move temporarily to Pitcairni, you’ll be given a free piece of land to build a house.
Kerguelen islands
The islands located in the middle of the Indian Ocean are also known as the Desolation islands. The distance from the nearest populated point to Madagascar is 3300 km. There are constantly around 50-100 scientists on the island. The Kerguelen islands are visited once in three months by a ship which departs from the Reunion island, the trip takes 6 days. The highest points of the island is a peak of a mountain which has been conquered only by a few people. That’s why the island is considered to be one of the most isolated places in the world.
The volcano of Sidley
Sidley is Antarctica’s highest volcano (4284m) and is situated in the region’s most isolated place – on Marie Byrdi land, which doesn’t particularly belong to any country. It is already complicated to reach Antarctica as there is no regular transport system to there from any place in the world. In the course of history, only two expeditions have reached the peak of the volcano.