NordenBladet —This year RIFF will explore new technology and use it to bring quality cinema to an even wider audience in Iceland. There will be online screenings to movie lovers across the country to Keflavík, Ísafjörður and Akureyri as well as those who can normally not attend the festival such as those at sea, at hospitals and in prisons.
This year guests will also be able to enjoy Q&A’s, discussions and more with online events. Industry Days will be held in the Nordic House and special screenings in Bíó Paradís. Other events will be planned according to the current situation.
This year´s programme will be filled with high quality films related to current and controversial topics. European films will be highlighted due to the 33rd European Film Awards being presented in Iceland this December.
“It´s a great honour for Reykjavik to host this big event and RIFF aims to build a bridge between RIFF and EFA with screenings of quality, European films until December. ” New head of Programming is Frédéric Boyer.
Boyer has been the Artistic Director of the Tribeca Film Festival since 2012, and of the Les Arcs European Film Festival since 2009. Prior to that, he was the Artistic Director of the Director´s Fortnight at Cannes for two years, after 6 years as a senior programmer in the Fortnight´s Selection Committee.
Guests will be able to access the films through Festival Scope. The platform is used by many well-known film festivals such as CPH DOX and Locarno Film Festival.
NordenBladet – Since January 18th, 2020, four of the twelve man-made caves in Hella are open to the public. The Hella caves are ancient; some even believed to date further back than the settlement of the Vikings. In truth, nobody knows when they were originally constructed, but they have been taken care of by the same family for nearly 200 years.
The caves feature drawings and carvings on the walls as well as carved seats. Many have wondered if they are the handiwork of the Celts, or whether the caves were a place of worship. Currently a restoration project is underway, supervised by the Cultural Heritage Agency of Iceland. The goal of the restoration is to eventually open more of the caves to the public, and all income generated from those that are currently open will go to this end.
If you’re interested in seeing the caves for yourself, they are located approximately an hour away from Reykjavík off Highway 1. Tours are 45 minutes and tickets for adults are 3,900 ISK and 1,950 ISK for children.
NordenBladet – The Vikings were ancient Scandinavian origin seafarers whose characteristic culture flourished around the 8th until the 11th century (the so called Viking Era). The name “Viking” apparently stems from ancient Nordic word vik that stands for gulf; viking therefore is someone from the gulf, a seafarer. Although the vikings have given their name to an entire era, these warrior-seafarers made up a relatively small proportion of the population of those times, the majority of the people were peaceful farmers. According to yet another theory the name viking comes from old English word wic that stands for a merchandising settlement. Besides the conquering missions the vikings were also engaged in handicraft and trade.
The Vikings were skilled boat builders; their dragon longboats’ board and square sail guaranteed a safe journey on the sea during those times. The trips took them to Iceland, Greenland and North-American shores. Before the dawn of great discoveries the Vikings had a significant role to play in exploring novel lands, however, the word about their travels weren’t widely spread, since they didn’t complete surveys nor create any maps based on measurements.
The Vikings that set sail for Eastern lands were also known as the Varangians. Their activity spread as far as the Byzantine and they played an important political role in the development of the Kyiv-Russian state. On the coast of France the Varangians were known as the Normans.
The Viking trips were also conveyed (especially during the 11th-12th centuries) by Estonians, especially folks from Saaremaa.
Due to weak political arrangements, the spread of Christianity and the development of warfare the Vikings remained in the shadow in 12th century Europe. They founded their settlements here and there and blended in with the local people.
Interest for the activities of Vikings was kindled once more in the Romanticism period when they were depicted as non-historically idealised madly courageous great warriors. Based on influence of recent popculture (movies, comic strips, etc) a rather incorrect image of Viking activities, outlook and lifestyle was spread. Nowadays the followers of ancient Viking Era copy the material and intellectual heritage in their daily life, in Viking camps, festivals, in open air museums and theme parks.
The Norse race being depicted in a mythical and untrue manner gave way to national socialist ideology. A section of the admirers of Vikings have summoned under odinism, asatra, wotanism and other neopaganist religious sects. Extremist ideology and seeking confrontation has lead to serial burning of churches in Norway by the fan of vikings Varg Vikernese.
In the period of 300 years, roughly from 800 – 1050 A.D., central Europe was held under terror by wild men from the Nordics – the Viking warriors. The ambition to collect more silver and gold, slaves and new territioris drove the Vikings to set sail and depart from their homes in current Norway, Denmark and Sweden. Their unexpected and cruel bursts of robberies were legendary; Christian monks described with great horror the looting raids and destruction that befell the wealthy monasteries and towns.
But the Vikings did more than destroy. They were also smart traders, experienced sailors, skilled handicraftsmen and ship builders. They lived in the world of poets and sagas, in daily life matters their society was significantly open and democratic in the context of those times.
Most of us have stumbled upon romantic images of Vikings as ancient Nordic heroes. Unfortunately the majority of these depictions are flawed. The best example would be the wide spread idea of tall males wearing helmets with horns and sitting in dragon-headed ships. As a matter of fact the Vikings never wore helmets with horns, their males were 165 cm tall and females 154 cm tall. The majority of the Vikings were peaceful farmers, just a small portion were active in seafaring, trading and raids. The Scandinavian Viking Era and the corresponding time period in the Baltics – younger Iron Age – have been less available to the wider audience due to limitations set by the Soviet Rule regarding depictions of prehistory.
The unfamiliar articles found from Estonia, especially Saaremaa, the ports and fortresses one finds there are a sign of a society that was same level with the organised neighbouring countries and where seafaring and trade – obviously also piracy – played an important role. There is no depiction of Scandinavian journeys to the East without paying any attention to ancient inhabitants of Saaremaa, Courland and other east coast Baltic Sea inhabitants. Using the notion “Viking” in the broader sense we can with great certainty speak also about Estonian Vikings.
Viking raids
The Vikings traveled, traded and raided all over Europe, reaching in the East to Baghdad and in the West even to America. Iceland was discovered in the year 870 and Greenland in the year 985. The Viking Leif Eriksson was probably the first European to set his foot on American soil in Newfoundland, today’s Canadian territory, and did that already back in the year 1001.
The conditional start time of the Viking Era is taken to be 793 when the warriors, unexpectedly arriving from the North, raided Lidisfarne monastery on an island on the north-eastern coast of England. Such wickedness was a shock to the entire Christian world. Still the raids organised by northern pagans remained not the last, instead for a few centuries these activities became a horrible reality in Western Europe.
The Vikings navigated the long European rivers Rhine, Seine and Loire – as far as Paris. On Easter 845 Paris was raided; the unwelcome guests would leave after king Charles of France paid the Vikings 3150 kg of silver. On top of that the Viking leader Ragnar took as a souvenir a piece of the town gate. Probably to the comfort of the citizens – Ragnar as well as most of his men died of unexpected circumstances on their way back home.
The Vikings started to spend the winter in places they raided and the conquerings would thus extend to many years sometimes. Still a few more years and the Vikings that had stayed in Normandy and Northern England, blended in with the local people and took over the local language.
Vikings on the Eastern roads
The Eastern Vikings, also known as the Varangians, sailed over the Baltic Sea as well as along the long Russian rivers towards southern lands. The destination of many of the journeys of those times were the richest countries of the world they lived in – the Byzantine Empire’s capital city Constantinople (current Istanbul) and the Arab Caliphate’s capital city Baghdad, yet the Vikings also reached Jerusalem and even further. The Byzantine emperor’s security team was made up of Vikings, still it has to be emphasized that among the names of those men that have survived until our times there are also many Finno-Ugric and Baltic names.
According to preserved tradition and the Russian Letopis Chronicles the Varangians mainly stemming from today’s Sweden founded in the year 862 the Old Russian Empire. In North-Western Russia their main centre was Novgorod, Old Ladoga and Izborsk. The existence of the Viking upper class in these settlements as well as around Kyiv is supported by the many Scandinavian style burials.
Apparently the trade channels leading to the Orient were administered by Baltc Finns and the Baltic nations. This was the so-called East Road, Austervegr, though which the Eastern spices and silver poured in to Europe, and back to the Eastern countries the European fur, wax and slaves.
Three routes sprang from the Baltics, that through the Russian rivers connected the East and West. The first of them reached from central Sweden to the Aland Islands, from there along the coast to today’s Helsinki and went on along the Finnish coast to Ladoga. The second route sprang from Saaremaa, went up along Pänu River and River Emajõgi, through smaller water bodies until Lake Peipsi and from there to on Russia. The rich findings of treasures and oldest towns of Estonia on this road speak of its highest importance among the three routes. The third route went along Väina River to Russia.
Estonia in the Viking times
Although the Vikings founded their colony settlements to the territories of today’s Russia and Finland’s west and east coast, they weren’t successful in settling in the Baltics. Nevertheless the majority of important trade routes ran along the coast and rivers here. Probably the reason for this is that in the Scandinavian chronicles describe the activity of the men on the eastern route that never let the Swedish Vikings settle in with their trade centres here. The seafarers in Saaremaa and Courland turned out dangerous for the little countries that emerged in Scandinavia in the 11th and 12th centuries, often romantically referred to as the Estonian (resp Latvian) Viking Era.
The clearest evidence about the treasures pouring through Estonia is the silver buried in the ground, the abundance of which is comparable only to Gotland in the Baltic Sea region. All of the archaelogical findings here refers to strong connection to Swedish Vikings as well as Russian Varangians.
Evidence of ancient Estonians as full feathered members of the Viking world are traced from plenty of burial findings. Of course, with jewellery and weapons only the richest members of the society were buried, as well as the leaders of regions and villages and their families. The weapons and jewellery that were burnt together with the deceased, were sometimes of Scandinavian origin or prepared on the spot after the patterns from there. Most international have been the weapons, which is understandable, since in war one would need to remain on the same level as the neighbour. Also men’s accessories and probably also clothing were in Estonia quite similar to those in the Nordics. This refers to the shared world view – an understanding about what is suitable for a wealthy warrior regarding weapons and accessories was similar on the eastern as well as the western coast of the Baltic Sea.
Vikings – the rulers of the world
The Vikings were skilled and brave seafarers. With their long wooden ships they also sailed across the stormy ocean. On sea the Viking boat mainly moved with the help of a big rectangular sail, close to the shore and also on rivers the mast was lowered and men started rowing. Whenever possible, the Vikings sailed close to the shore in seeing distance and in daylight. When crossing the ocean they used the Sun and stars for navigation. To find the right direction, they carefully paid attention to the wind, seabirds, and the character of the waves.
The best preserved Viking boats have been found in the rich Viking captains burials, the best known to name a few are Oseberg and Gokstad ships in Norway. Although the wood has decayed in these cases as well, the boat structure can be restored based on the preserved iron parts. A lot of pictures depicting drakar ships have preserved.
Nowadays enthusiasts from Scandinavian countries have rebuilt many Viking boats and have even traveled with these on the original Viking raid routes.
When will the Estonian own Viking boat be discovered?
This is the question that has excited everbody around here that has done research on ancient times. It is known to archaeologists that during the Viking Era the dead were burnt sometimes in the boat, as in Scandinavia, but non-burnt ships have not been found from Estonian burials. Who knows, maybe there is a shipwrecked Viking boat waiting to be found by someone near the shore or perhaps today already on the mainland. The ground has risen during the last couple thousand years so significantly that in several Viking Era harbors people today cultivate the field.
The chronicle writer Henry of Latvia has mentioned that Estonians used to have two types of boats – piratica and liburna. The first of these was a war boat, the other was mostly a trade boat. The war boat accommodated ca 30 men, it had a tall bow, probably dragon or snake shaped, and a rectangular sail. The boats of Estonian Vikings were thus similar to the Scandinavian ones, there were however obviously some differences in the building details.
The oldest wrecked ships found from Estonian waters originate from the 13th and 14th centuries and these have been discovered in Pärnu and in Saaremaa Mailinn town. From Riga a wrecked ship from the 12th or 13th century has been discovered, and according to the Latvian experts it might have been built in Courland or Saaremaa.
In Estonia, the underwater archaeologist Vello Mäss has done research on boats and shipping, lately he has authored and published a book on that topic. Illustrations and details from that book have been used in the current overview as well.
Vikings as warriors
Individual courage was a feature most valued by the Vikings. The warriors had to be ready to follow their captain or king to battle, raid or trade journey at any time. It was only in war that one could gain eternal glory and it was everybody’s dream to fall in battle, armed. The warriors that died in that manner were expected to proceed to Valhalla, where they could for ever do the things most pleasant for them: eat, drink, celebrate and fight in battle.
Estonian Vikings in Scandinavian sagas
Estonians as well as Estonian seafarers have been mentioned in the Scandinavian sagas as well as other written sources several times. Oftentimes it is the vague “Eastern route men”, that included also Estonians, mostly men from Saaremaa, and Courland men. Estonia or its various parts have been mentioned on many runestones, announcing the stay or the local death of a memorable person.
According to a Snorri Sturlusoni saga the King of Sweden Erik had organized in the years 850-860 many raids to the Eastern shores of the Baltics, including Estonia, conquering these territories.
In the year 967 the then 3-year-old King of Norway Olav Trygvesson traveled with his mother Estrid together with merchants to Novgorod to Estrid’s brother Sigurd, when they were attacked by pirates. Olav ended up being separated from his mother and was sold together with two mates, Torulfi and Torgils, to a cruel Estonian named Klerkon, who put Torulfi to death because of him being weak. Olav and Torgils in turn were traded for a good goat.
The new owner of the boys Klerk sold them again to a family of generous Estonians, to master Reas and mistress Rekon. Olav grew up in Estonia and was set free six years later when his uncle noticed him by chance at the market and bought him and Torgils back. Mother Estrid was set free still some years later.
Njalli saga songs mention a sea battle between Icelandic Vikings and Estonians somewhere near Saaremaa in the year 972. The writer referred to Estonians as the Estonian Vikings and their boats as warboats.
The Varangian Ulf (Uleb) coming from Novgorod was destroyed according to Novgorodian chronicles apparently at a sea battle near today’s Tallinn near the Iron Gate.
According to the chronicler Saxo Grammaticus the Courland men and Saaremaa men raided the Danish territory in 1170. Estonian pirates were probably among the “Eastern route men” that destroyed Central Sweden’s capital Sigtuna. Henry of Latvia repeatedly described raids to Scandinavia led by men from Saaremaa in the beginning of the 13th century, as well as the sea battles with men from Saaremaa on the Eastern shore of the Baltic Sea.
Fortresses
When comparing the anciend cultural landscape of the Eastern and Western coast of the Baltic Sea, it strikes us that there is an abundance of fortresses on the Eastern coast. This tendency can be observed already back in the Bronze Age, yet only in the Viking Era the number of fortresses becomes especially outstanding. In the Viking Era the parishes emerged that in later times were functioning as administrative and ecclesiastical territorial units. In the parish centres, later near the church, the fortresses can be found. The fortresses were the centres for centralised power and served as the residence of the local well-off nobleman.
The fortresses became especially strong in the 11th century when some of the earlier fortresses were abandoned and new fortresses were built near them. Just like some other phenomena, this was a feature that indicated important socio-political changes in Estonia in those days; probably greater segregation and the centralization of power.
During archaeological excavations it has become clear that the fortresses were constantly in use. In one of Estonia’s largest fortresses, Varbola, the remains of more than 70 buildings have been found. The houses were built from cross beams, in the corner was the stove. The houses of noblemen have not been distinguished from among other buildings since the fortresses have been only partly examined.
Clothing in the Viking Era
The clothes of Estonian men during the Viking times strongly resembles the Scandinavian clothing of those times, there is especially significant similarity with Gotland’s and Central Sweden’s Vikings. The complete outfit included woollen pants, long linen or woollen shirt and cloak extending to the knees. The collar and the edges of the cloak or the coat were often decorated with bronze spirals.
Belts, as well as sword belts were decorated with bronze nails. The belt always included a bronze lining sheath with the knife.
Different from the Scandinavian Vikings the Estonian men used to wear rather many rings on their fingers, also bracelets. While the Baltic warriors had special war bracelets then Estonian men mostly wore the same type of bracelets as women (only the spiral bracelets and the Saaremaa type bracelets never occur in male burials).
In the earlier times of the Viking Era men used to fasten their cloaks with ring head jewellery needles. In the 10th century the brooches became only a male type jewellery and men began to fasten their coats and shirts with horse shoe shaped pins.
There is little information about male headgear. In the Livonian burials there are sometimes hats with leather and cloth decorations with bronze spirals.
Armory of the Vikings
Most of the Viking Era arms that have been found in Estonia represent an international variety of weapons. Still it is possible to bring out some characteristic features. Fully preserved swords have rarely been found in Estonian burials, mostly they are fragments of the sword handle. All the swords though that have been found represent the type mostly common in Scandinavia.
Most frequently spear heads can be found in the burials, the types of which greatly vary from the very luxurious imported articles to plain local production. Oftentimes the throwing spear and stabbing spear heads are found together. An abundance of throwing spear heads have been found from Estonia. In some burials hatchets have been found.
Henry of Latvia speaks of marching troops armed with spears and mentions throwing spears that came with special equipment for throwing them. From many burials archaeologists have found equipment of cavalry. It is obvious that the noblemen fought in battle on horseback with swords and infantry used throwing and stabbing spears.
The findings from burials can mostly vaguely be connected to the common usage of weapons. Often spear heads are found near the burials, sometimes also remains of shield cups, these have probably been cast there during some kind of a ritual held within the funeral procedure or after it. Apparently the addition of the shield in the burial wasn’t common. Arrow heads are rare, but in Livonian burials there are often remains of shields as well as arrow sheaths.
Arms, especially the sword, are glorified in many Scandinavian sagas, the best of them were even named. Good arms, like damask covered sword blades and spear heads were very expensive. The most luxurious arms were decorated with silver wire or thin layer of silver or gold, with complex engraved ornaments.
Women’s clothes
Like in the neighbouring countries the clothing of women in Estonia included linen shirt (woollen in winter), covered by woollen tunic without sleeves. In Southern Estonia were the influence of Latgales was greater, instead on the tunic dress-coat a rug shirt was common.
For festive occasions and during colder periods women used to wear manyfold woollen rugs that were decorated on the edges with woven horsehair and sewn-in bronze spirals and colourful ribbons. The rugs were wrapped around the shoulders and held together with horse shoe shaped brooches.
The abundance of bronze spirals in the Viking Era female burials is significant. The spirals were decorating the shirts, the rugs, the headscarfs. The embroidery has not preserved.
A leather or woven belt was worn around the waist. Leather belts were decorated with bronze pins and a keychain along with a knife sheath was attached to the belt, decorated with a bronze layer. The belt had historically been among the most important components also in a magical context. It was believed that the belt had magic powers that safeguarded the owner; older verse describes maidens weaving belts (a motive symbolizing the thread of life). The belt was frequently worn also during the night, even expecting girls had to wear a belt (it kept them safe from the evil eye).
Headgear decorated with bronze spirals and scarfs with bronze patterns were common all around Estonia. It was required that wed wives not left the house with their heads uncovered, this was already common in the Viking Era (there was a similar tradition in Scandinavia). This requirement has been associated with the necessity to distinguish the woman with a symbol of marital status as well as with the belief widely spread in pre-industial society, that the hair of women sexually related to a male possessed power and that these powers were to be controlled (i.e. the hair was to be cut or hidden).
The most significant adornment that women in the 11th century Estonia wore, was certainly the bosom decoration that was composed of chains, pins and the holders.The lenght and number of the chest jewellery depended on the wealth of the owner, but most of the Viking Era female burials include at least some fragments of the chest jewellery. In the early Viking times the pins were rather modest; from the 10th century on the pins bacame bigger and the chains longer and heavier. Pendants and bells were often attached to the chains.
Wealthier women had many neckrings simultaneously as well as up to ten bracelets. The Viking time Estonia was rich in several types of bracelets, just the spiral bracelet was common all over the country. Rings were also of many types, worn by women as well as men. The typology of brooches is also versatile; brooches were used for holding together the rug and shirt neck.
Women’s adornments can roughly be divided in two: Saaremaa and Läänemaa regions as opposed to Eastern Estonian adornments. In Saaremaa and Läänemaa in the Western part there were various trianguar chest pins and a certain type of bracelets and neck rings. In Eastern Estonia chest jewellery was not used at all in earlier Viking times, therefore it can be concluded that instead of the tunic held by brooches the Eastern women wore rug skirts. Eastern Estonian type of adornments (with cross-head) became wide spread only in the 11th century. The variety of bracelets and neck rings is larger in Eastern Estonia than in Läänemaa.
Women and children of Vikings
In the Middle Ages the Viking women had more autonomy than their sisters in Europe. The woman ran the household and directed the domestic arrangements, especially when men were away for the long journeys. The female type and male type responsibilities were strictly separated in those times and the border was well established. Although in the Scandinavian legends one can find the valkyries, the female warriors, no trace of actual data about the existence of female warriors has been confirmed.
Differently from the Scandinavian tradition, on the Eastern coast of the Baltic Sea there are occasionally female burials with arms, either as tools or symbols of their status. The knife in the sheath with plenty of bronze decorations intimately belonged to the festive gown of Estonian women.
Every Viking woman spent the day spinning with the spindle. It was enormous effort to produce thread from the wool or cotton, that thereafter was woven to cloth on vertical looms. On images that have been preserved until our times, the women of the Viking Era are oftentimes holding a spindle.
Equally many female and male burials are known from the Viking times. At first glance there seem to be more of the wealthy female burials, but this is because women wore more adornments.
It is generally believed that the burial traditions reflect the beliefs and the worldview of the society. Rich contributions in burials in the Viking times in female burials refer to the important role of women in their society, the status was a sum of the woman’s as well as the husband’s position in the society.
Bone material that has poorly preserved due to burning won’t allow determining the age of the deceased and thus it is difficult to say whether it was the maidens or the wed wives with the most contributions (in other words: if it was the parents or the husband more important in the society). In later period of younger Iron Age the maiden’s burials are more modest as compared to those of wives.
From some of the female burials in Saaremaa weights have been found. Similar burials are also in Scandinavia. Some scientist interpret this as the reference to women’s inclusion in trade, some only relate these to status. Probably women had more roles tp play than just running the household, since men were most of the time away from home in battle and trading.
The Arab traveller, visiting Hedeby town in Southern Scandinavia around 950 A.D., wrote of women there that loved to accentuate the beauty of their eyes with dark shades defining the eye. The same was observed in many Viking men. Also adornments were worn by men and women equally.
The Viking people had many children, but more than half of the children died in early age. It has been estimated that just three out of ten babies lived to their first birthday.
Also the mean age of women was less than in men, since many of the young women died while giving birth.
The Viking kids grew at home, where they learned to work by observing their parents and fellows. In Scandinavia, but perhaps also in Estonia it was common to give sons of elders to be a foster child in another elder’s family for some time.
At an early age boys began learning how to use arms, in the beginning these were wooden arms and later actual arms. From burials of young boys miniature copies of actual arms have been found.
When the Vikings stayed in foreign land for a longer period, they brought their wives and children along. This was how the Scandinavian colonies were formed, the members of these blended with the local people after a few generations.
Read also: Stockholm´s museums: The Viking Museum – tourist info, guides, pictures
NordenBladet – For those, who are interested in Norse mythology and wish to experience the Viking age, I recommend to visit The Viking Museum in Djurgårdsvägen 48, 115 21 Stockholm. In the exhibition, several guided tours are held daily in Swedish and English. Audioguide and adventure ride is available in English, Russian, Finnish, Italian, French, Spanish German, Chinese and Swedish.
NordenBladet – There are a few different definitions of what constitutes the Arctic, but it can essentially be defined as the area surrounding the North Pole. This northernmost part of the planet is home to about 4 million people, about 10% of whom are indigenous. It is the most sparsely populated area of the earth. The territories of eight countries lie within the region: Norway, Sweden, Finland, Denmark, Russia, Canada, the US, and Iceland. The Arctic Ocean and surrounding waters cover about one third of the region’s area, making fishing and waterways some of its most important resources.
Climate change and changes in international relations have put a spotlight on the Arctic in recent years. In the spring of 2019, Iceland started its two-year chairmanship of the Arctic Council, emphasising the importance of stability, sustainability, and co-operation in the area, and the intention to find ways to tackle its challenges, most notably climate change. A few months later, US President Donald Trump had a different kind of co-operation in mind when he tweeted about purchasing Greenland. The diplomatic kerfuffle than ensued proves relations in the Arctic are anything but simple.
Iceland in particular has also seen increased interest from foreign powers. Russian bombers were spotted entering NATO airspace near Iceland twice this March. While Icelandic-Russian diplomatic ties are stiffer than they have been for a long time (due not only to the military activity but also sanctions over Russia’s indexation of Crimea), just this year, Iceland has received a visit from both US Secretary of State Mike Pompeo and US Vice President Mike Pence. Iceland has also gauged increased interest from China, not just as a tourism destination but also as an investment possibility. In light of US, Russian, end even Chinese interest in the Arctic, we’ll be taking a closer look at how international politics might affect the future of Arctic communities.
Cooperation without borders
The Arctic Council was founded in 1996. It consists of emissaries from the eight countries that make up the arctic landmass, as well as indigenous residents’ organisations. According to their website, the council is the leading intergovernmental forum promoting co-operation, co-ordination and interaction among the Arctic states, Arctic indigenous communities, and other inhabitants of the Arctic on common issues, in particular sustainable development and environmental protection. While the Nordic countries have a long history of cultural exchange and co-operation, the same cannot be said for the US and Russia. The result is that while the Arctic Council is the most important international council on Arctic issues, certain matters are completely off the table, including fisheries and defence.
Chairmanship of the council is shared between its member countries. Each country holds the chairmanship for two years, after which it moves to the next. Iceland assumed the chairmanship in spring of 2019 and declared its goals to be to continue the co-operation, sustainability, and stability of the area.
For over two decades, the Arctic Council has been the scene of highly important negotiations that make extremely dull headlines: the drafting of regulations and making of deals necessary to ensure the prospects of the area. One example is the Stockholm Convention on Persistent Organic Pollutants or the Minamata Convention on Mercury. Now international interest in the area is increasing, but that’s not necessarily in the best interest of the people who inhabit the area. To put it bluntly, the Arctic is too important, ecologically speaking, to become a monetary or a military bone of contention between powerful nations.
While Russia has long been poised as the yin to the US’s yang in international politics, Russia’s interest and activity in the north Atlantic has long been a known quantity. China’s interest is newer, and if US Vice President’s Pence’s Iceland visit is anything to go by, it’s more of a concern to the US than their old foes in Moscow. Pence remarked on the occasion that the US was happy with Iceland’s decision to decline participation in the Belt and Road Initiative, a Chinese infrastructure investment project. In fact, both Iceland’s Prime Minister and the Minister for Foreign affairs corrected the vice president as Iceland hasn’t made any decision to either participate or decline as yet. Pence also warned Icelanders not to accept the technology of the Chinese company Huawei, but there has been speculation that both of these comments were made for Chinese ears, rather than Icelandic ones.
Iceland. Photo: Pexels/Valdemaras D.
Climate change
For centuries, the Arctic has been of little international consequence. As climate change continues to ravage the planet, however, the region is warming up. Three hundred billion tonnes of ice melted off the Greenland glacier this summer. The continuous melting of this freshwater is changing the makeup of the Arctic Ocean. Ocean acidification is wreaking havoc on underwater ecosystems. Aside from the effect this has on the global ecosystem, melting ice and receding glaciers are revealing hitherto unreachable land and waters, making the ears of investors, entrepreneurs, and politicians all over the world perk up.
Climate change is one of Iceland’s stated focuses in its leadership of the Arctic Council, but it’s difficult to find a local solution to a global problem. As Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson, former president of Iceland, put it, “The future of the Arctic is decided in other parts of the world, on other continents. The way we use energy; pollution; increased carbon dioxide release; will have uncontrollable consequences for the future of the Arctic.”
While Iceland’s intentions may be to prioritise action on climate change, international politics are once again interfering. Last spring, the Council didn’t release a joint statement as is usual, because the US Secretary of State wouldn’t sign a statement which mentioned climate change.
Opportunities and interest
Recently, a vessel owned by Russian gas company Novatek sailed the northeast route from Russia to China in record time. The voyage took 16 days, and no icebreakers were needed to clear the way. According to Novatek, the northeast route takes less than half the time it takes to sail west through the Suez Canal. Indeed, Iceland’s Minister for Foreign Affairs Guðlaugur Þór Þórðarsson has stated that the effects of the opening of sailing routes through the Arctic are comparable to those of the Suez and Panama Canals when they first went into operation.
In light of that comparison, it’s obvious that control of Arctic waterways could become extremely lucrative. In Iceland, some investors are already thinking to the future. A planned container port in remote Finnafjörður fjord is expected to connect Asia, Europe, and the US. The project has been heavily criticised by environmentalists.
In addition to new trading routes, Arctic resources such as fish stocks are changing with the climate. For some stocks this means less fish, but in other cases, fish species that tend to live further south are migrating north as the water heats up. As the Greenland glacier and sea ice in the Arctic melt, access to oil drilling and mining opportunities becomes easier and therefore more profitable. While it might seem callous to consider business opportunities as climate change ravages the area, this is an important issue for the people of the Arctic, the least populated area in the world. Iceland doesn’t have an army, instead relying on defence co-operation and diplomatic negotiations for safety. If the global superpowers’ struggle for economic influence in the area intensifies, that could spell trouble for a small nation that relies on soft power.
National security
Minister for Foreign Affairs Guðlaugur Þór has stated that “It’s evident that there’s increased interest and emphasis on the Arctic and the Arctic Ocean from the superpowers, as well as others. […] There hasn’t been much military development in the area. And we want to make sure it stays that way.”
But that might prove more difficult than anticipated. Iceland is a founding member of NATO, and the US military has long had a base on the Reykjanes peninsula. Recently, increased US spending in the base’s renovation have caused a stir, and Vice President Pence emphasised the importance of the defence agreement during his visit to Iceland recently. Iceland’s continued defence cooperation with the US and NATO has always muddied the waters and increased defence costs and military exercises in Iceland has roused strong opposition. Increased military activity by Russia in the area might be one of the reasons why the US are fortifying their position, as ever since the Cold War, Iceland has been in a strategically important spot between the two countries.
Historian Sumarliði Ísleifsson has stated that increased interest is not necessarily in the best interest of the people of the Arctic. According to Sumarliði, the Icelandic government should speak clearly of their intent to keep the Arctic peaceful. Military exercises should have no place here, and Iceland should do its best to avoid getting dragged into an arms race. He told Iceland’s national broadcaster RÚV, “The more low-key the politics in the area are, the better.” Eiríkur Bergmann, professor of political science, considers it a matter of worry how the US approaches the countries in the Arctic. President Trump’s attempt to purchase Greenland shows his attitude towards the people of the Arctic and might portray the lack of respect and knowledge international political leaders have for the people of the Arctic.
NordenBladet – Laufabrauð (Icelandic pronunciation: [ˈløːivaprœiθ], “leaf bread”; sometimes also called “snowflake bread” in English) is a traditional kind of Icelandic bread that is most often eaten in the Christmas season. Originating from northern Iceland but now eaten throughout the country, it consists of round, very thin flat cakes with a diameter of about 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 inches), decorated with leaf-like, geometric patterns and fried briefly in hot fat or oil.
Laufabrauð can be bought in bakeries or made at home, either with ready-made dough or from scratch; patterns are either cut by hand or created using a heavy brass roller, the laufabrauðsjárn (“leaf bread iron”). Leaf bread making at home is usually a family undertaking and often an essential part of the Christmas preparations, where several generations gather and take part in the decorating.
Laufabrauð. Photos: 3x NordenBladet
Many families have their own personal traditions surrounding the bread. They gather together in the beginning of December, usually on the first Sunday of Advent, and make a full day out of it. Groups of 12-15 can make several hundred cakes at a time. At the end of the day, the cakes are split evenly between all and are stored in cookie tins until Christmas. Recipes are passed down from mother to daughter and there are also designs passed down through generations.
Traditionally, this was the only time of the year when men took any part in the cooking. They would roll the dough out, which takes considerable effort because of the required thinness, and/or cut patterns into the bread with their pocketknives. Thin bread, which used to be a necessity, is now the sign of a good laufabrauð. If you can read newspaper headlines (or even the articles) through the rolled out dough, you’ve done it right.
Dough is kneaded by hand, rolled into a long cylinder, and wrapped, usually in a tea towel, and allowed to rest. Today, bakeries will sell pre-kneaded and cut dough that only needs to be decorated and fried, but where’s the fun in that?
The dough can be made with pretty much whatever flour you’d like – regular white, whole wheat, rye, whatever. Sometimes caraway seeds are added in. Icky.
The cylinder is cut into about 40-50 pieces. They are flattened by a rolling pin as thin as they can possibly be. The dough dries out quickly and must be kept wrapped. Once a slice is cut off for decorating, the cylinder of dough is immediately wrapped up again, usually in a tea towel. Scraps and cutoffs aren’t re-kneaded because they will just dry out, so they are fried and eaten as a warm treat.
A plate is placed on top of the rolled out dough and a circle is traced using a kleinuhjûl (a knife that resembles a pizza cutter). Today, the bread is usually decorated with a special knife called a laufabraudsjárn, but some families’ still use pocketknives. In that case, each circle of dough is folded into a half moon and small slantwise cuts are carved into it. Once this is done, the half moon is unfolded and every other “leaf” is flipped back.
Recipe:
4 1/3 c. (1000 g) flour
¾ c. (200 g) rye flour
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. salt
¼ c. (50 g) butter, melted
4 1/3 c. (1 l) warm milk
Oil or fat for frying (about 1 liter)
In a large mixing bowl, combine flour, rye flour, sugar, and salt. Add melted butter, warm milk (heat it to just below the boiling point then allow to cool slightly) until you obtain a smooth dough. Flatten the dough into very thin circles, like pancakes. Decorate by cutting out patterns with a sharp knife. Using the tines of a fork, poke holes all over the dough circles (to prevent the formation of bubbles when frying). To prevent the dough from drying out before frying, stack the breads on top of one another, placing a sheet of parchment paper between each. Heat oil or fat in a deep pan until very hot (180°C). Using 2 forks to put them in oil, fry the circles of dough for about 1 minute on both sides until golden then immediately press the bread between newspaper and papertowels with a flat pot lid. Store the breads stacked in a tin box in a cool, dry place so that they don’t break. Laufabrauð is traditionally eaten with hangikjöt (smoked lamb).
Laufabrauð origin.
The preparation of this bread is a tradition that originated in northern Iceland and subsequently expanded throughout the territory. The first written mention dates from the first half of the 18th century (1736). It was probably older, but there are no references to it. Today, it is an essential Christmas tradition in Iceland.
Iceland, at that time, was a country in which it was very difficult to find products such as flour, sugar, salt… especially in winter. They were considered luxury products and only accessible to the richest. In addition that most of the times they arrived with mold by the lack of interest of the merchants. Until the 18th century there was no milling equipment in the country.
The Icelanders learned how to make water mills. The problem was the grain, although it was cheaper, they had to save to be able to buy it. That is why everything made from flour was intended for special occasions. Housewives tried to stretch the dough as thin as possible to create more pieces. They said that the ideal was to be able to read the Bible through the dough. Each bread was designed with great care and affection to emphasize the importance of consuming that piece of bread.
Where Can one purchase a “Leaf-Cutting Tool” for Laufabrauð?
For many Icelanders, making laufabrauð (leaf bread) is an essential part of Christmas preparations. The art of making leaf bread is usually a family undertaking, where several generations gather and take part. Leaf-bread making traditionally requires a laufabrauðsjárn, or a leaf-bread roller, which can be purchased in, among other places, Kokka, Allt í Köku, and Brynja.
Kokka (on Laugavegur 47) offers two types of leaf-bread rollers: a 22mm roller (ISK 18,500) and a finer, 12mm roller (ISK 20,500). According to a sales representative, Kokka currently has a few leaf-bread rollers in stock; however, as many Icelanders begin preparing leaf bread in early December, they “usually go quickly this time of year.”
Allt í köku (on Smiðjuvegur 9 in Kópavogur) offers three types of leaf-bread rollers: a 12mm roller (ISK 20,495), a 22mm roller for (ISK 18,495), and a 22mm roller with a custom-made wooden handle (ISK 23,995). Last year, “all the rollers sold out,” (excepting those with the wooden handles).
Brynja (on Laugavegur 29) offers one type of hand-crafted leaf-bread roller (ISK 21,840). They expect the rollers to sell out in early December.
It’s interesting to note that most of the rollers that the abovementioned vendors sell are produced by Handverk Haraldar. The company is owned and operated by Haraldur Guðbjartsson who is one of only a few Icelanders who manufacturers hand-made leaf-bread rollers. Haraldur acquired the company, along with the manufacturing equipment, from Ægir Björgvinsson and his wife “Didda” in 2013.
NordenBladet – This weekend, the city of Reykjavík and the Icelandic government signed a contract that will begin an investigation into potentially opening a new domestic airport in Hvassahraun. According to RÚV, each party will invest 100 million ISK to study if the location is appropriate for the project.
The report created in this agreement revealed moving domestic flights to the Keflavík airport is currently impossible so it would make more sense to build an entirely new domestic one. In reaction to this news, Icelandair’s CEO, Bogi Nils Bogason, said he believed domestic and international airports must be in the same place. In an interview with Vísir, he discussed the complexity of the situation. “It is very difficult to make the decision to invest in brand new projects while we are investing in other projects simultaneously,” he explained.
The Icelandair group also emphasised how costly it would be to run two airports and urged the creation of but one airport with both domestic and international destinations, which would distribute tourists more evenly throughout the country. They hope this would create, “an opportunity to make an airport in Iceland the centre of West Nordic flight connections.” That said, the reports from the city and the Icelandic government do not indicate any desire to add international destinations to this Hvassahraun airport.
The Minister of Transport, Sigurdur Ingi Jóhannsson, agreed that even though the Keflavík airport could currently handle the 19 million people it received this year, it is necessary to consider the possible growth of those numbers. “If we aim for the number of passengers to grow to 30-35 million in the next 30-40 years, then maybe within 10 years we need to decide what is going to be done. Then, Hvassahraun will come in handy,” he said.
While currently the domestic airport is located in central Reykjavík, the international airport operates in Keflavík, which is about 50 km away from the capital. Hvassahraun, in contrast, is just 20 km outside of Reykjavík.
NordenBladet – A new Police Council under the chairmanship of the National Commissioner of the Police will begin operations on January 1 next year, RÚV.is reports. The new council was introduced by Minister of Justice Áslaug Arna Sigurbjörnsdóttir at the Minister’s residence in Reykjavík yesterday.
Kjartan Þorkelsson, Chief of Police of South Iceland, will temporarily replace Haraldur Johannessen as the National Commissioner of the Police at the start of the new year. Haraldur, who has occupied the position for 22 years, has negotiated the terms of his departure with Áslaug Arna and will initially assume an advisory role for the Ministry of Justice.
An Official Forum for Cooperation
The Police Council will serve as an official forum for Iceland’s police chiefs, aiming to increase cooperation between regional police chiefs and to contribute to more efficient use of funds. The council also aims to ensure police authorities better fulfil their duties to the public.
The Police Council will not exercise independent authority nor make policy decisions. The National Commissioner of the Police will continue to direct law-enforcement matters on behalf of the Minister of Justice but will consult with the Police Council regarding any significant decisions.
Soon to be Advertised
In her speech yesterday, Áslaug Arna stated that the office of the National Commissioner of the Police will be advertised soon. Acting Commissioner Kjartan Þorkelsson has revealed that he will not be applying for the office.
The current organisation of police districts in Iceland was signed into law on December 4, 2014, by then Prime Minister Sigmundur Davíð Gunnlaugsson. Áslaug Arna stated that the present moment was an auspicious time to rethink the organisation. Haraldur Johannesson’s role as National Commissioner has proved controversial of late, with many police officers and regional police chiefs expressing dissatisfaction with Haraldur’s actions in office.
A Lack of Cooperation
“Over the past few weeks we have reviewed the system in its entirety,” Áslaug Arna stated, adding that the new organisational changes aim to make police authorities operate better as a unified whole. Matters of dispute that she personally reviewed all share one thing in common: lack of cooperation between police districts.
In her speech, Áslaug Arna added that while many police-related affairs call for localised solutions, others require a more comprehensive review, which the National Commissioner and the Police Council will oversee. The council aims to prevent needless repetition, to reduce redundancy, and to transfer endemic police assignments to specialised units.
The Minister of Justice is also considering other changes, including a possible merger of regional police districts.
NordenBladet – Today, Landsvirkjun*, the National Power Company of Iceland, will introduce plans to become carbon neutral by 2025, RÚV reports. According to Hörður Árnarson, CEO of Landsvirkjun, the company has monitored greenhouse gas emissions closely over the past ten years. Landsvirkjun’s initiative forms a part of the government’s plans to become carbon neutral by 2040.
Emissions Halved Since 2005
In an interview on Rás 2 this morning, Hörður Árnason stated that Landsvirkjun’s emissions have halved from 2005 when greenhouse gas emissions were approximately 45 thousand tonnes per year. According to Hörður, today Landsvirkjun emits approximately 22 thousand tonnes annually. Most of the emissions can be traced to geothermal power stations, especially Krafla**. Landsvirkjun aims to reduce emissions from these sources, while also cleaning emissions.
“The steam is separated and mixed with fluid whereupon it is injected back into the site of its retrieval … it’s not a simple operation and it involves considerable innovation. We believe that such efforts, however, will lead to an accumulation of knowledge that Icelandic engineering firms and others can use to sell to foreign parties.”
A Comprehensive and Costly Initiative
Hörður stated that the operations will be comprehensive and costly. “It’s a big project that we divide into three parts. Prioritisation is key. First, it is important to prevent emissions, which Landsvirkjun has done by adopting an internal carbon price. We’re probably the first company in Iceland to have done so. For all of our projects, we equate greenhouse gas emissions with cost; for every tonne of greenhouse gas emissions we estimate that it costs us approximately $33,” Hörður stated, admitting that the carbon price was relatively low. The second most important aspect of Landsvirkjun’s project is reducing emissions, Hörður added, with carbon sequestration coming third.
Landsvrkjun aims to update all of its cars, machinery, and engines so that in ten years they will be powered by electricity, methane, or hydrogen.
Iceland’s Largest Producer of Electricity
Landsvirkjun’s presentation will be held at Nauthóll at 2.00pm today. The panel of speakers will include Halldór Þorgeirsson, Chair of Iceland’s Climate Council; Kristín Linda Árnadóttir, Deputy CEO of Landsvirkjun; and Eggert Benedikt Guðmundsson, Director of Grænvangur, among others.
Landsvirkjun is Iceland’s largest electricity generator and one of the ten largest producers of renewable energy in Europe. Landsvirkjun operates 17 power plants in Iceland concentrated on five main areas of operation. It is owned entirely by the Icelandic state.
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* Landsvirkjun, the National Power Company of Iceland, is Iceland’s largest electricity generator and one of the ten largest producers of renewable energy in Europe. Landsvirkjun operates 17 power plants in Iceland concentrated on five main areas of operation.
Landsvirkjun was founded on 1 July 1965 by the state of Iceland and the city of Reykjavik. The city of Reykjavík contributed to the company three power stations at the Sog River. Shortly after its founding construction on the Búrfell hydropower station began. From 1965 until 2005 the purpose of Landsvirkjun was to produce and distribute high voltage electricity. The municipality of Akureyri acquired a share in Landsvirkjun in 1983 and became the third owner. Three hydropower stations at the Laxá River previously owned by the municipality of Akureyri were merged into Landsvirkjun. The hydropower stations Búrfell, Sigalda, Hrauneyjafoss, Blanda, Sultartangi, Vatnsfell, and Fljótsdalsstöð were all built by Landsvirkjun. The geothermal power station Krafla came under Landsvirkjun’s ownership in 1986. Through a new electricity act in 2005 the company’s Transmission Division became Landsnet, an independent limited company and a subsidiary of Landsvirkjun. Landsnet owns and operates the Icelandic transmission system and manages the country‘s electricity system. In 2007 the state of Iceland took over the ownership shares of Akureyri and Reykjavík in Landsvirkjun, turning it into a public partnership, fully owned by the state of Iceland. In December 2012, Landsvirkjun erected two wind turbines, in an area known as Hafið, within the construction area of Búrfell Power Station, in the south of Iceland. The turbines have a total of 2 MW of installed power.
** The Krafla geothermal power plant is a geothermal power generating facility located in Iceland, close to the Krafla Volcano and the lake Mývatn. It is considered to be Iceland’s largest power station with its 33 boreholes, and it is able to produce 500 GWh of electricity annually with its installed capacity of 60 MW (2 x 30 megawatts).
The construction work started in 1974, but due to volcanic activities in the area, the building was slowed down. The Krafla power station was officially launched in the early 1977, but was only able to produce at its full efficiency of 60 megawatts after a second steam turbine was installed in 1996.
Originally the power plant was owned by the government, but was purchased in 1985 and has since been operated by Landsvirkjun (National Power Company). About 15 employees work there full-time.
NordenBladet – Prime Minister Katrín Jakobsdóttir met Queen Elizabeth at the NATO Summit in London on Tuesday, Vísir reports. The meeting celebrated the 70th anniversary of the Alliance. Following a fully booked schedule, she arrived at the reception at Buckingham Palace in the afternoon to meet with The Queen.
Katrín was in good company with other female world leaders, including German Chancellor Angela Merkel, Danish Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen, and Norwegian Prime Minister Erna Solberg. All spoke with The Queen of England at the reception, after which, Katrín dined with Prime Minister Boris Johnson and other NATO leaders at 10 Downing Street.
Earlier in the day, Katrín gave a speech at the Chatham House. She began her speech by discussing the disappearance of the Ok Glacier earlier this year as a sign of the climate threat facing the world. She urged world leaders to focus on environmental issues rather than focusing solely on economic growth. She called for measures other than GDP to assess the prosperity of nations, and to take similar measures of prosperity and quality of life as the ones the Icelandic government introduced last September.
The NATO Summit continues today, and Katrín will have a bilateral meeting with Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez and Portuguese Prime Minister António Costa.
NordenBladet – The cost of 20 Reykjavík City Council meetings from June 2018 to July 2019 amounted to 17 million ISK, or 850,000 ISK per meeting, Vísir reports. Of the 17 million, 7.2 million was spent on food and drink, or 360,000 ISK per meeting.
According to information from the City of Reykjavík, roughly 40 people are allowed to eat at the meetings, including city deputies, city hall staff, security guards and 23 council members. That means the culinary budget for each person is roughly 9,000 ISK. And you thought 2,000 ISK for lunch was a splurge.
The issue was first raised when Pawel Bartoszek, President of City Council, asked how much of the budget was dedicated to food for the meetings. The answer was 5.8 million ISK to Múlakaffi, and 1.3 million ISK to other companies. Pawel then suggested the council adjourn at an earlier hour to save costs on dinner.
After the inquiry, the City Council began ordering pizza to keep costs down. We can only imagine they took full advantage of last week’s Domino’s Megavika.